Denmark by Design

Denmark wasn't "on my list" of cities to visit, despite the insistence of a friend that it was a place that I couldn't miss. I was vaguely curious, given that my inner circle consists of lots of designers and artists who know Denmark has a center for modern architecture and design.

How and why did I end up there? Why was a $151 round-trip ticket from New York's JFK to Copenhagen. It was worth it, if nothing else, than for collecting airline miles at a cheap rate. Ka-ching! What I realized at the moment that I hit the "purchase" button is that I'd probably go just about anywhere for the right price. This time, thanks for my obsessive stalking of airfarewatchdog.com, the right price was $151. Round Trip. Delta Airlines. Why not go for a long weekend? Right?

Copenhagen, I thought, is small enough that I could hit the high points if I moved at breakneck speed. And so, I hit the ground running--or rolling. The city is best and easiest to see by bike and the city encourages it. It seems as though everyone uses a bike to get to work, school, restaurants and churches. They're easy to come by. In the summer, Copenhagen, one of the leading bike cities, offers them for free to use. (They're good for getting around the city center, but don't try to run too far with them--there are no gears.)

It's also worth it to see the city by taking a boat tour through its canals. You'll hit most of the main sites this way. (Don't bother exiting the boat to see the famous Little Mermaid, however. Just squint real hard since she's, well, little.)







Copenhagen is pleasant but it's far from being a hardcore destination--so for a little of that, I rode a bike over to Christiania, home of the "counterculture." This is where the hippies live--in a former military base that they've taken over. Nice arrangement, I think. No taxes, no utility bills. You can't really take pictures here because residents and others are engaging in illegal activity (read: selling drugs a la flea market-style). It's one of those things you just have to see. Why the government hasn't shut the neighborhood down is a prime example of politics at work. I was a little dizzy when I headed back to my hotel.

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While In Copenhagen

Where to Eat: Do as the locals do and have a smørrebrød (open-faced sandwich) on rye bread for lunch. Toppings include meat, fish, cheese or spreads. You can even get one with pigeon. Legendary Ida Davidsen is the most popular spot for the sandwiches, offering 250 varieties, but if it's crowded, give the young chef at Aamanns a try.



Where to Stay: I didn't find out about the Danhostel Copenhagen City until I had already checked into my hotel. This place has a cafe, restaurant and laptops to rent. My twit-pal Mario stayed here this week and raved about it.